30 January 2010 - The Plymouth Herald - Jackie Butler
MRS Ida Cham Njai strolled through the market, head held high, gently weaving through the chattering crowds towards the waterfront, her proud and striking red-clad figure standing out against the mass of ramshackle wooden stalls and patchwork of huts to either side of the dusty pathway. I followed close behind, feeling self-conscious in my borrowed lime green apparel, a traditional Gambian three-piece of floor-length wrap skirt, with matching overdress and a simple scarf, which Ida had conjured into an elaborate headdress to rival her own. But in the morning heat, already nudging 30C, if not cool, I was far more comfortable than my Western clothes would have allowed.
Trotting down a gentle slope, suddenly the scene opened out on to Tanji beach and the most extraordinary assault to the senses I have ever experienced. There was an overwhelming odour of fish, enough to catch in the throat at first; on the crowded sands scores of women crouched over buckets wielding big, sharp knives, deftly removing heads and guts from the day’s catch and throwing the waste towards the water’s edge, where seagulls swooped for an easy breakfast.
A little way out at sea, teams of fishermen lolled lazily on a dozen or more long, open boats, their work done for the day; children no older than seven or eight carried big round trays of fruit or bread on their heads, urging us to buy, while others hassled for money or gifts; men old and young stand around smoking cigarettes.
At a cloth-spread table staffed by a row of laughing, gossiping assistants, Ida poked and prodded some fierce-looking fishy specimens and prompted me to hand over a couple of crumpled Dalasi banknotes. With some of our lunch in the bag, we moved back into the market throng to select vegetables, rice and spices from assorted sellers. A woman with a plump sleeping baby bound tightly to her back approached, pointing at me, smiling and saying something in her native Mandinka. The two women laughed. “What did she say?” I asked. “She says you look very beautiful and asked if you were wife number two,” Ida replied, laughing, explaining that men in this chiefly Muslim country were allowed up to four spouses. The young mother was making a gentle joke. So, this was shopping, Gambian style – an honest slice of everyday life in this tiny West African country. With no refrigerator in the average home many housewives go through this ritual twice a day. It made a striking, but welcome, contrast to the addictive splendour of the Coco Ocean Resort and Spa a short drive away, where I could have remained indefinitely cocooned in the most divine vacation luxury. I love all that five-star treatment, of course, but I also get immense pleasure from engaging with the real people of the places I visit. In The Gambia this is not only possible, but it’s a major part of their sustainable tourism strategy and it’s helping to keep threatened traditions and customs alive.
The Yabouy home cooking day run by Ida is an excellent example. A regular excursion, run by West African Tours and easily bookable as part of a Gambia Experience holiday, it offers tourists a chance to shop, cook and eat in traditional style. The following day my party set off bright and early, climbing up a ladder into the back a huge four-wheel drive lorry. We trundled down the dusty tracks that pass for roads in The Gambia – only the two major routes are Tarmac – to catch some snapshots of town and country life in the company of our most charming and chatty tour guide, football fanatic Mucki.
A former British colony where English is the main language alongside local dialects, The Gambia is not only small – half the size of Wales – but it’s incredibly flat. As we drove, people and buildings emerged abruptly from either side and it was impossible to anticipate what was coming up ahead. We negotiated the low-rise shanty metropolis of Serrekunda, a sea of tatty shopfronts and single-room business premises, the noisy streets simply swarming with people. Nothing could have prepared us for the enthusiastic reception waiting at one of the local schools where tourists regularly call in to look around and give donations of greatly appreciated pens, pencils and books.
Every child, immaculately turned out in green uniforms, wanted to say hello and shake our hands, and in the sparsely furnished, electricity-free classroom they proudly demonstrated their immaculate English pronunciation as the teacher led them through their “Jollyphonics” chanting routines.
Back on the lorry and deeper into the unknown, lofty vegetation sweeping past our ears, Mucki pointed out the plethora of colourful birds, naming each one carefully and accurately, throwing in a smattering of football-themed humour. “Red-beaked hornbill: Gambia 2, England, nil.” Eventually we emerged onto a deserted seafront where a lone cafe overlooked an idyllic beach. We quenched our thirst with fizzy pop and selected a light lunch from a laden hot and cold buffet before hopping across the baking sand and plunging neck-deep into the balmy waves for a leisurely swim. I dried off dozing and swinging gently in a string hammock. Total bliss.
We drove some of the way back along the smooth wet sand, calling in to check out some of the different kinds of hotels The Gambia Experience packages offer, including the smart, high class Western style Sheraton Gambia and the exclusive and very private boutique chic of ocean-front Ngala. Earlier in the wek we’d enjoyed dinner at the mid-range Kombo Beach Hotel in the Kotu district, where a more British ambience prevails.
That night, we dined at JoJo’s bistro and grill, known for its fish and steaks, in the busy and popular Kololi resort, home of the Strip, where there are restaurants of all nationalities, except Gambian, loads of bars and a couple of clubs. But for me nothing could exceed the appeal of the top class Moroccan-style Coco Ocean and Spa at Bijilo, where I luxuriated in my spacious single storey studio-style Beach Club Villa, which boasted a furnished outdoor terrace as big as its bed-sitting room and bathroom suite. Stroll along the quiet bougainvillea dotted pathways, and there were gorgeous pools, an oasis of calm in the spa where they offer soothing massages and treatments. Foodwise, breakfast was included in the package, and I enjoyed a fabulous a la carte dinner in their classy Safran restaurant. I guess I’m a five-star girl deep down, and I’d go back for more tomorrow. If you’re looking for winter sun, sea and sand, but with a slice of authentic local flavour, then The Gambia is an ideal choice for a variety of budgets; it’s only a six-hour flight from theUKand, being in the same time zone, there’s no jet lag to worry about. Over the winter – from November to April – long hours of dry sunny weather are guaranteed, with comfortable temperatures peaking at around 32C. You are wise to have some precautionary jabs, take malaria tablets (it’s in an active zone) and make sure you spray yourself with insect repellent and slap on high factor sunscreen regularly.
■ The Bradt Guide to The Gambia (£13.99) is packed with excellent travel advice and offers a comprehensive guide to the whole of The Gambia.
■ Next week I’ll be writing about my visit to The Gambia’s Makasutu Culture Forest and to schools in the Ballabu Conservation Project area, where they are working to preserve food growing traditions with help from the Eden Project’s Gardens For Life educational.
JACKIE Butler travelled with The Gambia Experience, the UK’s only specialist tour operator to The Gambia and the only one to
offer flights from Bristol International Airport. The last Bristol departure for this winter season is on February 19.
■ Jackie stayed at the Coco Ocean Resort and Spa. Prices are from £988 per person based on seven nights bed and breakfast in a junior suite and £1,324 per person for seven nights bed and breakfast in a Beach Club villa. Prices include return flights from Bristol, in-flight meals, hotel transfers, Government tourist tax and airport taxes.The above prices apply to departures up until the end of January 2010.
■ The following late offers are currently available departing from Bristol:
Two grade hotel allocated on arrival (AOA): seven nights – £249, departing January 29 and £349, departing February 5.
Kairaba Beach Hotel (5 grade): seven nights departing January 29 and February 5 –£829 (deluxe room), representing a saving of up to £142 per person.
Sheraton Gambia (5 grade): seven nights departing January 29 – £699, representing a saving of up to £204 per person.
The above prices are based on bed and breakfast and include return Bristol to Banjul flight, in flight meals, airport taxes,
government tourist tax and hotel transfers.
The company’s Gatwick flights operate year round; Birmingham and Manchester flights operate until April.
● For all bookings and further information call reservations on 0845 330 2087 or visit www.gambia.co.uk.
View the pdf »
