31 December 2009 - WeightWatchers Magazine (Feb 2010) - Sian Merrylees
Listening to the waves gently crash on to the beach just 100 yards away, while a skilled therapist uses warm aromatic oils to give me a head massage, is blissful enough. But it’s even more heavenly when I remind myself that just hours ago I was battling through London traffic.
My sister and I are in Gambia to sample Coco Ocean Resort & Spa, the country’s first spa hotel.
Upmarket hotels are popping up all over this West African country, as more of us discover that Gambia is an ideal destination for winter sun. Not only are you almost guaranteed year-round sunshine, with average temperatures hovering around 30 degrees, it’s also less than a six-hour flight from Gatwick airport and, in winter, there’s no time difference.
The hotel – a stunning mix of African and Moroccan architectural styles – is built on a slope that leads down to the sea and the unspoilt Bijilo beach, with suites and villas situated to give guests plenty of ocean view. Although our journey from the airport is through a dry, dusty landscape, here the lawns are lush and villas are hidden behind hedges of bougainvillea and jasmine. The spa is a whitewashed Moroccanstyle minaret with high ceilings and blue stained glass. The only sounds inside are the slap of flip-flops on tiles and the gurgle of the thalassotherapy pool. The atmosphere defies you to do anything other than relax. The Moroccan hammam, similar to a Turkish bath, is the perfect antidote to winter months spent hiding under woollen layers.
In the steam room, my therapist gives me a brisk body scrub using black olive soap, rinses this off, then covers my body in Rhassoul mud, a mineral-rich clay from the Moroccan Atlas mountains. I’m then left in the herbal-smelling steam to allow the treatment to penetrate my pores. Another favourite is the Gold Pearly Wrap, an exfoliating and conditioning treatment that finishes with your body being gently slathered in a moisturising cream to give it a beautiful golden shimmer – ideal for enhancing your tan. Very quickly our days fall into an easy pattern of leisurely breakfast, a laze beside the sea or one of the three swimming pools, then a spa treatment before or after lunch. There are three restaurants, with a slight bias towards Asian influences (the chef is Thai). Portions are large and it would be incredibly easy to give up any attempt to stick to your POINTS values. However, help is at hand. When my sister looks slightly daunted by the tempting croissants and fried breakfasts on offer, our smiling waiter suggests the chef whip up a simple omelette for her. And it is this friendly attentiveness of the staff that truly makes our stay. Beach towels arrive instantly and sun umbrellas are constantly adjusted forus as the shade moves. But ‘real’ Gambia is waiting, so we rouse ourselves to explore.
At the nearby market in Serekunda, we’re overwhelmed by young boys, who are desperate to sell us key rings, bracelets or animal woodcarvings. But it’s all good-natured and we laughingly push our way through to the older female stallholders in traditional African dress, who sit patiently beside their wares. Smiling and teasing goes a long way when we barter and I buy some wooden bowls that I tell myself wouldn’t look out of place in The Conran Shop.
Determined to eat healthily, we’ve gorged on local barracuda, ladyfish and prawns. So when we pass a fishing village, we’re keen to explore. Shoeless children slip their hands into ours and ask us where we’re from. Poverty is obvious but charm and banter are in ready supply. When I say we’re from Wales, the kids shout ‘Bora da!’ (good morning!). The gulf between hedonistic luxury at the hotel and living conditions outside isn’t lost on the many visitors to Gambia. On the flight over I met several returnees who, while pointing out how much the Gambian economy relies on tourism, admit they’ve packed gifts of biros and schoolbooks. And perhaps one day I’ll be among them. For although I was seduced by the sun and the spa, it’s the people who truly make you fall in love with Gambia.
The Gambia Experience (0845 330 2087; gambia.co.uk) offers seven-night holidays at the Coco Ocean Resort & Spa from £979 per person B&B, based on two sharing a Junior Suite, including flights, transfers and taxes.
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